I cannot remember the last time I had a traditional
Thanksgiving meal. One year, my dad made turkey-shaped polenta squares with
cranberry butter. That’s about as close as it ever got, unless I am somehow
repressing those memories of turkey, gravy, stuffing, and pumpkin pie. Until I
started college, we spent most Thanksgivings in LA, where we substituted squab
for turkey, almond and orange peel rice for mashed potatoes, and baba ghanoush
for gravy. Egyptian, Persian, Armenian, even Chinese dishes have made their way
onto our Thanksgiving table. This year, we had Egyptian food again, but this time,
we weren't in LA: we were in Cairo.
My parents have wanted to go to Egypt for a while now. When
my dad asked me if I wanted to join them after they visited me in Bologna, I of
course said yes. I am very thankful for the opportunities my parents have given
me, especially those that have allowed me to travel, so spending Thanksgiving
in Cairo seemed to be quite appropriate. I need to preface my story with that
disclaimer so as not to seem ungrateful or bratty. I really am happy to have
seen a new country (and new continent!).
However, visiting a third-world, Muslim country as a
socially liberal Western female was extremely challenging. I wanted to love my
experience in Cairo, surrounded by years of ancient history and archaeological wonder.
I also wanted to have an open-mind toward a lifestyle that was completely
foreign to me. Unfortunately, the culture shock was too much. The culmination
of the dirty streets, non-stop honking, rabid dogs, unbearable pollution,
constant male gazing (yeah, it was even worse than Italy), the complete lack of
autonomy, and the protests in Tahrir square, minutes from our hotel, was
overwhelming and frustrating. Despite all of the difficulty, the cool parts of
Egypt were just that: very, very cool.
The Pyramids at Giza. As with most world wonders, it is
impossible to accurately capture the feeling of being in their presence. I
could flip through the dictionary to find the right word – immense, powerful,
awesome – but what comes to mind instead is “humbling” (although, perhaps, “over-compensating”
may be more appropriate for my more cynical readers…). Even the hoards of souvenir
vendors and semi-serious marriage offers (my going rate was about 200 camels
and 4 Ferraris) could not detract from the ancient architectural ingenuity. We
took a camel ride through the desert to reach the pyramids, which was
definitely more impressive than my first camel ride at the Buffalo Zoo.
We also saw Memphis, the ancient capital, and Saqqara, the site
of the first step-pyramid. The highlight of the trip for me, however, was the
Royal Mummy exhibit at the Egyptian Museum. I’m not just saying that because my
dad spent an extra 10 dollars for the separate admission ticket. The Pharaohs,
who spent so much of their lives preparing for the after-life, really did
achieve immortality. They are remembered thousands of years after their deaths
by people from all over the world. The exhibit was divided into two separate
rooms, and the mummies were covered from the neck down to their ankles. So yes,
that means their faces and feet were completely uncovered. I stared into the
blackened, shriveled face of Ramses II; he, thankfully, did not stare back.
When I landed in Italy, I must admit I was relieved to be
back in familiar territory. I am still unsure whether my experience in Egypt
has dissuaded me from travelling to more non-European countries or whether it
will propel me toward further adventure. I certainly hope the latter. For the
time being, though, I am in no hurry to return to Cairo.
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